Top rope auto belay accident reddit. This guy 100% completely forgot to clip in.

Top rope auto belay accident reddit. It's happened so much I'm in the habbit of actually checking that the biner isn't catching before I let go. And yes we are scared of falling. There was a bad (but not fatal) accident in my favorite top rope gym the other day and it's been announced that the gym will… My friend always tries to stick to auto belay routes that are next to regular top ropes so that he can hold the top rope on the way down. She was a foot or two above the last clip and was at the anchor after this final move. So it depends on the gym, clearly, unfortunately I’ve seen outside almost-accidents like this esp if belayer isn't wearing belay gloves, is used to using a grigri, or the rope is new/super slick. just like the climber unfortunately did. How is it possible to go up without having a rope attached to you? Wouldn't you notice it? When auto-belays share space with other climbing terrain, you not only have gates that are easy to climb around, you have climbers that are used to climbing around them. She's okay now but our gym is closed all year because of it. The bells in your head don't go off when you climb around an auto-belay gate if you do that all the time on lead on the same wall. Just wondering what everyone else’s If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. She broke both femurs and her hips. I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. , trusted the auto belay and decked. We came to the decision to remove auto belays. Hey Climbers! I’m a fairly new climber deciding to take up the sport to improve my upper body and tackle a fear of heights. He still hates it and realizes he'd burn the shit out of his hands if the auto belay were to fail and he attempted to catch himself, but it helps mentally even just a tiny bit. In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. If your belayer primarily topropes indoors, those are almost always heavy and slow/thick ropes. These accidents are so common - a woman fell in our gym as well just a couple of weeks ago due to failing to clip in (luckily only minor injuries), and I really struggle to understand it. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. The home of Climbing on reddit. I treat it like top-rope soloing outdoors. Hit the the top of the wall at 30 ft. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). Climbers usually race up the holds as fast as they can , touch a sensor at the end and push off the wall, while the auto-belay slowly lowers them. . 1. Every time I approach a route, I check my harness is snug, check that I'm clipped in to the belay loop and that the autolocker is working. This guy 100% completely forgot to clip in. She slipped and felland kept falling. It’s like anything with climbing on ropes, you just need to learn to trust the gear. The number of auto belay accidents are increasing. If I climb faster than the autobelay can retract, then the carabiner drops to the bottom of the belay loop, twists, then catches the loop. One of my climbing buddies belays with a grigri and I feel like the rope has a tendency to be more… “sticky” when she’s trying to pull up slack? There's an auto belay in the video, but so inconspicuous you may have missed it. Most of these are falls from the top of the wall due to failure to clip in, making them catastrophic. At my university gym, one of the wall employees was getting some late night crag action on an autobelay. 310 votes, 227 comments. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. The rope zipped through the belay device and she decked full force on to the slightly padded (maybe 4" thick) floor. Last night I was leading and was hanging when i looked over at another climber friend about to reach for the finishing move on a fifty foot wall. I I think it’s natural to fear auto belays, especially as they feel so alien when you’ve been used to having a partner belay you. The data shows that these accidents occur among both new and experienced climbers. I did a course on top rope, auto belay and bouldering and during the course I was able to rappel down but since then I’ve been getting more and more anxious when it comes to getting down. A close call that I am aware of with an auto belay was due to someone's t-shirt and/or belay loop getting stuck in the carabiner gate and preventing the gate from fully closing and autolocking. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. I wasn’t a huge fan. 274 votes, 101 comments. To the point where last time I tried I just had to climb down as I couldn’t 103 votes, 190 comments. I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. I belay with a Jul and I’m surprised by the fact that more people don’t belay with them, as they feel much more like an ATC (the device I learned to belay with) and are simpler overall. liamutu xwvrvc ltxyndd wyupy pznqwk wrjksb hvtlb irmj ywqpeg dqgdqvf

26th Apr 2024