Rock climbing injuries reddit. This pyramid aides in the rehabilitation of climbing injuries by providing a system of four major categories that will guide the climber’s recovery process. But toe pain is more serious when it doesn’t disappear after a few hours, and it happens to a lot of climbers because of the way we use and abuse our feet. Seen people in the gym accidentally get their achilles punctured through a carabiner and they're dangling from it upside down. Am rock climber. Before the injury I was climbing 5. Take your time, read through the whole thing. One of the very first things you learn when you climb outside is to make a "suicide knot" at the end of your rope so that never happens. To illustrate how an injury's emotional aspects influence the physical injury including the perception of pain. Don't give out blanket advice to visit a doctor for climbing-specific injuries, the doc I visited completely misdiagnosed a pulley tear as "probably arthritis". Jared Vagy in his book Climb Injury-Free. I felt immediately sick and it brought up some really tough memories, but I'm also grateful for how good it is right now. See below for a video walking through the two methods to determine the grade or severity of a pulley injury. I am climbing just v0s and v1s. I even bouldered with it before it flaired up second time a week later, and then I got checked by a PT. MembersOnline • TastyBratwurst ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. You could be doing Foot injury tips I have flat feet and experienced some immense pain after climbing about a year ago. The Rock Rehab Pyramid The Rock Rehab Pyramid was developed by Physical Therapist, Dr. This injury prevention and rehabilitation system developed for rock climbers structures the rehabilitation process into four distinct levels with general rules used to determine a climber’s appropriateness for progression We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. And with good reason: While climbing is a full-body exercise, fingers make the most contact with the rock, thus taking more abuse than other limbs, especially from pockets. MembersOnline • fumingelephant ADMIN MOD. took a good fall from about 12 feet up on a slight overhang. For example, bouldering accounts for the large majority of knee and ankle injuries referenced, as well as almost twice the total reported injuries as roped climbing. From there progressively increase the Hello fellow redditors and climbing fanatics! I had an acl/meniscus tear couple months ago and was in a repair surgery last mont. I've been climbing pretty regularly since 2013, but as soon as I started to reach into the 12's 2 years ago and project harder routes for me, I've been experiencing lots of finger injuries. Chronic stiffness and swelling in the big toe joint is an early sign of osteoarthritis that Oct 4, 2022 · About the Contributors Dr. Preferably a hand doc. I've seen a lot of injuries before and have a pretty strong stomach, but this particular break at an indoor bouldering gym really shook me. MTB seems like a sports that is much easier to get injured (any kind) than most extreme sports (Not necessary need to play them extremely, which also applied for MTB. Overall, climbing sports had a lower injury incidence and severity score than many popular sports, including basketball, sailing or soccer; indoor climbing ranked the lowest in terms of injuries of all sports assessed. It's much more often to see people posting images or videos about injuries than most extreme sports. Read my comment in this thread for my general opinion on all climbing related internet forum worthy injuries. I work as a mountain guide and rock guide and am set to head to Denali in June. Other people climb once in a while as a weekend activity. The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide contains everything essential for building a training plan including stability and antagonist training for injury prevention minus the “filler” content like psychology, eating, climbing technique… read a lot, liked this the most. Comparing the injury rate between bouldering and rope climbing is also no competition. I think I was back on the wall two weeks after my initial injury as a means of recovery. started light climbing with wrist widget (v0-4), slowly Rock climbing has become a professional competitive sport, many folks are being drawn to this sport with a parallel increase in the occurrence of sport-related injuries on both the natural rock and artificial walls. Mike Anderson has a lot of really good information in the Rock Climber's Training Manual (RCTM). Finger injuries are one of the most common climbing injuries and finger strength (in relationship to your body weight) is one of the most important indicators of climbing performance in advanced climbers. I especially have a hard time trying to keep my neck tucked in after an unexpected fall. I climb indoors. advanced climbing routines from "making of a rock prodigy" introduction to training, moon climbing Eric Horst's articles on training, injuries, mental training metolius training guide Back to Index 11. Apr 1, 2022 · Strains, sprains and other injuries are common among climbers, but they don’t have to be. Whether they prevent every injury or not is not the question. I've always been of the school of thought that the most productive path to recovery is 2ish weeks off from climbing, followed by light climbing with a taped finger. After 6 sessions I suffered grade I ac join injury which, judging by the symptoms, was very mild. At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. I climbed on it anyways because I thought it was just a little ache that I only got at work, but after a week or two of continually climbing on it, there was some definite pain. Pros training every day have a LOT of training behind them just to adjust to the May 1, 2017 · As you start to get toward 100% climbing, keep in mind that the greatest predictor of an injury is a previous injury. The framework for my ideas is based on The Rock Rehab Pyramid, a self-treatment approach for common climbing injuries designed by physical therapist Dr. Wish I found it earlier in my climbing journey. Second, there will be a little pain especially when starting after a long break (eg, when beginning climbing). Once my ankle healed a bit but still wasn’t in climbing shape, I top rope climbed without using that foot (sometimes I used a knee pad), and it was a fun challenge! I think it helps your To document the resources gathered about Cervical Radiculopathy, Cervical Herniated Disk Injury and Cervical Nerve Impingement and share them with this community. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. At my rock climbing gym they have a wall to teach new climbers the basics and part of it is learning how to fall. Has anyone out there had experience recovering from an ACL tear and getting back into An event was only categorized as an “injury” if paramedics or a physician were called to the scene. Sep 16, 2021 · Jennifer is the owner of Onsight Movement, a private physical therapy practice located in Las Vegas, specializing in treating rock climbing injuries and improving climbing performance. Does your gym have top rope? You could try climbing easier routes with only one leg (with doctor's approval). Saw a similar post with this video but the link was dead, so I'm reposting. Reply reply more repliesMore replies aclw123 • Rock climbing is a dangerous way of life and can lead to serious rock climbing injuries like this. Nov 7, 2012 · What climbers fear most isn’t heights, falls, or mangled toes—it’s finger injuries. It is a progression that climbers can use that directs you when and how to proceed. As it turned out, the majority of climbing injury events reported were either during lead climbing or top-roping (53% and 23%, respectively), with only 6 bouldering incidents qualifying as an injury (20% of the total injuries). So let’s take a deeper look at each of those grading criteria so that you have a better understanding of the injury. Keep it up, but don't bite off more than you can chew when rock climbing. It will cause persistent knee problems at a later age. It’s no surprise since the birthplace of American sport climbing, Smith Rock State Park, is located just 30 miles north of Bend. Apr 27, 2022 · Have a finger that feels like it’s on the cusp of injury? Here's how to tell whether it's about to tweak or just tired from overuse. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Reply reply bobombpom • Jan 20, 2021 · The finger pulleys and synovitis of the fingers are very common injuries for climbers usually from overuse and especially climbing crimpy holds. I feel them especially on big dynamic reaches. However, there are specific injuries common among rock climbers that can occur. I think if they are still sore after a couple of days, or they react very quickly with pain from any sort of toe use, it's probably injury. Listen to the doctor, treat your injury. I keep having issues with getting whiplash as a result of my falls that are more than 7 foot drops. This is my first every surgery and I already miss rock climbing. Over the years, I've accumulated injuries to both shoulders from non-climbing sports. hey y’all, i tore multiple ligaments from a pretty nasty bouldering fall about 6 weeks ago. Rock climbing has an increased following in the last several decades. Jared Vagy and illustrated in his book Climb Injury-Free. Any climbers here who can tell me about their recovery, how long it took for them to climb again and how it felt to get back and if it changed their climbing Posted by u/surveycircle_bot - 1 vote and 1 comment Just trying to do a survey here. I stupidly pushed through the pain and weakness in my left wrist working on this project until I physically couldn’t do it anymore, and the pain in my I know bouldering and climbing come with risks but I wondered how likely injury is and - I respect this isn’t scientific - if any regular climbers can share their perspectives and experience of injury? I highly recommend a book called “climb injury free” it covers lots of common rock climbing injuries and overuse ailments. Overall, climbing should be lighter and focusing on technique. Please understand that rock climbing is an extremely dangerous activity. This sport is… dangerous, no matter how many precautions are taken. You will need a really well balanced cycle to keep your body working, something that allows you to recover sufficiently and even more importantly for progress, keep your training high quality. For more information, please check out his book, Climb Injury 291 votes, 47 comments. Most likely an overuse injury. Rock Rehab Pyramid The Rock Rehab Pyramid was developed by Physical Therapist, Dr. In every single gym the accident log binder is overflowing with injuries due to bouldering (mostly bad landings), while injuries from roped climbing (top rope or lead) are scarce. MembersOnline • Toidiu ADMIN MOD Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Be careful when you’re fatigue later in your sessions, and try to avoid hand positions or specific holds that may cause you to re-injure yourself much easier. Had friends break legs taking a huge fall over a lip outside and slamming into the rock wall. I took two months off cold turkey, no climbing whatsoever, which sucked mentally but was totally necessary for my recovery. Other friends nearly paralyzed because of inattentive belayer decking them. Physiologically, my fingers seem to have adapted to the Reddit's rock climbing training community. What I do: warm up, take collagen supplements, pushups/pullups. Many people pursue rock-climbing as a serious hobby. bouldering) and rehabilitate. What do you think? Share Add a If they stop some injuries from happening, they do prevent injuries. I'd recommend starting with "gentler" exercises like rice bucket, putty, rubber bands, and such things first before going into hangboard. you'll probably never be 100%, but you might get close with a lot of rehab and strength training. Mar 13, 2019 · Do Climb Lower Grades if Your Injury Is Affected by Your Usual Grade If you aren’t ready to climb your usual grade because your injury is affecting you too much then climbing lower grades isn’t a bad thing at all. Sep 16, 2021 · Treatment Strategies: The Rock Rehab Pyramid Below, I have outlined a progression of activities and exercises which may be helpful in treating peroneal tendinopathy. Otherwise they can heal poorly and put you at higher risk for more pain down the road. You want to ask an orthopedic doctor who works with athletes. I stopped climbing on it about two weeks ago, started using a brace/splint Dec 12, 2024 · Parents are understandably proud of their climbing kids. That'd be a relatively safe and easy way to stay consistent with climbing while you recover as you won't have to worry as much about landing on your bad foot. MembersOnline • Hydrorockk ADMIN MOD Let me preface this by saying it's all based on my personal experience w/ a2 pulley injuries, and that your injury might be different: The only thing that heals a pulley injury is time. Maybe they are medaling in local or national comps. It emphasizes on physical and mental challenges, one that often tests climber's upper and lower body flexibility, strength, endurance, agility, and balance along with mental The most primary long term cause of gains in climbing, as with many sports, will depend on you keeping injuries at bay. 4 inches) and weight around 120kgs (265 pounds). Pulley deloaded hangboard like fallsapart recommended is better than feet on the ground, but feet on the ground works if there's no other option I did a writeup last year for r/climbharder http We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Because once you know the grade or severity of the injury, you can then determine how best to treat it. But when your kiddo mentions a sore finger that’s been hurting for days, take special note: kids aren’t immune to climbing injuries—and, in We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The video presents an in-depth discussion on the anatomy and biomechanics of pulley injuries and describes research articles related to pulley injuries in rock climbers. 135 votes, 60 comments. when i fell, my foot got caught in between two crash mats and i took all of the impact into my ankle and completely folded my ankle in half. it took years to heal. Jan 16, 2025 · Rock climbing and bouldering are popular sports in Central Oregon. Okay so just to clarify You saw a medical professional who also rock climbs (probably best case scenario) and they gave you advice. There was a bad (but not fatal) accident in my favorite top rope gym the other day and it's been announced that the gym will close "indefinitely" / "until further notice" 😭 Won't share the details because they have not been shared with our local climbing community yet, but I'd say the staff did their part and it wasn't a facility issue. worst injury ever. Jared Vagy DPT “The Climbing Doctor” that adds a lot of clarity to pulleys. A lot of experienced outside rock climbers die from feeding out too much rope until they just run out and fall to their death. The injury rates vary significantly from discipline to discipline. But I have one of those disorders and I’ve learned how to stop getting injured so even if you were predisposed it’s not inevitable that you’ve to have three pulley injuries a year. Rope climbing is a great alternative. Hi love, sorry to hear about your injury! I also sprained the shit out of my ankle falling funny off a bouldering route. 291 votes, 47 comments. i’m still in an aircast boot, but have been just climbing one legged for the time being when i can Reddit's rock climbing training community. Climb safe everyone. The different types of rock climbing can certainly strengthen your back and core, as well as your upper arms and shoulders. Check /r/climbing for more content. Anyone who has experienced a wrist sprain (not TFCC, probably grade 1 sprain) from climbing: how long did it take you to get back to the gym? I started experiencing wrist pain last week while working on a V4 project with some intense slopers. Chronic aggravation has a strong likelihood of further worsening your injury. 2 years out from my tfcc tear, it sucks. They do not eliminate the chance of being injured. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. You're right that you can still be injured, he's right that they prevent injuries. I miss climbing sometimes tho. 11c/d and v4/5. Student physical therapist here. During this time i took a small dose (chronic high doses can ruin your digestive system) of NSAIDs every morning, even when i didn't have pain. " Reddit's rock climbing training community. While there is always a risk of falling or traumatic injury in this sport, avid climbers more I've seen traumatic injuries in bouldering and ropes. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I’ve rested for 4 months now without climbing and the finger still feels weird, though the pain is gone until I crack it again. The pain is in the ball of my right foot. Climb as much as possible without overworking your body. Doesn't bother me for simple pulling movements but it does hurt (1/10 on pain scale) when I rotate the wrist or squeeze something (2-3/10). The key is to know the difference between regular training soreness and injury. Jared Vagy and you’ll learn the proper way to train, and be on your way to injury-free climbing. Jared Vagy. As for rehabbing the injury, definitely consult with a PT. Learn to listen to your body to reduce risk of slow overuse, and structure climbing days to prevent sudden From my personal experience, taping tightly around the A2 pulley alleviates a small amount of the stress placed on it via rock climbing. The Rock Rehab Pyramid The Rock Rehab Pyramid was developed by physical therapist and rock climber, Dr. There’s also obviously weight and conditioning factors 2 years out from my tfcc tear, it sucks. I saw this article where their take home message is: "Many climbers sustain overuse injuries, particularly to their fingers, while climbing indoors. I've had whiplash for about 3 times now (this isn't a normally occurring injury for most boulderers I had different finger injuries in the past from climbing. You need active recovery, keep your fingers engaged with lighter exercises, and build up from there. There is a small wet streak covering a foothold near the top of the boulder on a crucial, yet large foothold. Regardless of any advice you may receive while using this forum, it is your personal responsibility to make sure that you are fully trained to handle the great deal of risk involved in climbing and related activities. Can confirm, the injuries sustained here are most definitely fatal. Feb 23, 2020 · We offer our advice on the top 7 most common climbing injuries, how to spot problems occuring and how to avoid them in the first place. Perhaps the kids show incredible drive and passion for climbing, or have a natural aptitude for moving fluidly over rock and plastic alike. Pulley injuries generally occur because you apply more force to a tendon than it is ready to handle. The rock rehab pyramid was developed by physical therapist and rock climber Dr. Tendons are a hot topic in the climbing world and with good reason. It lets you focus on your rock climbing technique properly while staying away from movements that are going to reinjure you. I'm too scared to lose guitar playing because of another injury. With the right training and gear, rock climbing is generally a safe activity. Yeah, tendons are strange, they do not respond well to over-use or under-use in the case of an injury. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If I understand correctly, the thinking around soft-tissue injuries has changed quite a bit in the last decade. Biking and Crossfit are probably more dangerous than indoor rock climbing though, thanks to cars and dynamic movement with weights, respectively. Pulley injuries arise from a range of factors, and while some people are predisposed due to potential genetic disorders that cause fragile tissues. was climbing hard all weekend and this happened during a late evening sesh… Pulley injuries arise from a range of factors, and while some people are predisposed due to potential genetic disorders that cause fragile tissues. You have pain which means you have an injury. Reddit's rock climbing training community. To learn more about crimps, please visit “ What are the Different Bouldering Holds and How to Work with Them? It's extremely rare to get a serious acute injury while running, those are typically chronic and more comparable with people straining a pulley or tennis elbow. Any rock climbers here who tore their menisci? I haven't been able to climb for months and I just scheduled my meniscus repair and possible root repair for a month from now. Climbers who climb at higher grades, or who boulder and lead climb in preference to top roping, place themselves at greater risk. I've worked for multiple climbing gyms over the past 10 years. Jared Vagy “The Climbing Doctor,” is a doctor of physical therapy and an experienced climber, has devoted his career and studies to climbing-related injury prevention, orthopedics, and movement science. Rock Climbing Injury: Ankle Sprain Rehab Conditions are perfect as you approach your early season boulder project. Here is an excellent page for diagnosing and treating finger injuries. after they healed i started playing guitar and it's so amazing that I will not start to climb again. About a month ago I started noticing some ulnar wrist pain from repetitive use at work (hand in same position all day) (NOT carpal tunnel). In addition, there are many other outdoor and indoor options available for climbers of all abilities. If you’ve ever injured a finger pulley, you’re keenly aware of the structure. There’s also obviously weight and conditioning factors Hey guys, after climbing last week I have some pain in the outside of my wrist. What should I do to heal this “injury” and is it going to be permanent? Family doctor is a bad doctor to ask about this. I haven't had anything serious, but experience pain in different parts of my fingers. I've been training my finger strength and upper body solely after the surgery cause not able to climb or do any lower body activity due to the surgery and I'm wondering what would be optimal aproach for climbing focused training during this phase before getting back Not all injuries are the same but I hope you’re back to climbing soon! Injuries suck! Edit: I would like to add that my Airrosti provider encouraged me to keep climbing (very mildly) after a certain amount of treatment to gauge how I was healing. The foothold is not near the crux, so you decide to attempt the send anyways. The first and most important question when it comes to tendon pain is: should I rest it or load it? Personally, I wouldn't totally rule out more dynamic climbing if it isn't aggravating the injury. As with any injury you must refrain from performing activities which recreate your symptoms (e. Nov 25, 2013 · Climbers are used to having sore little piggies, whether it’s from jamming them into cracks or cramming them into tight, high-performance shoes. I began bouldering 2 months ago. Exercises In the beginning the best training for climbing is to climb. The rehabilitation program should consist of a lot of stretching and strengthening of the involved muscles as well as the uninvolved muscles (forearm flexors This is the smaller rock climbing community on reddit. Some weighted dips, one-armed push up progression, pistol squats and perhaps exercises like reverse curls for injury prevention, in terms of training antagonistic muscle groups to climbing. Any climbers out there who have torn an ACL? So, skiing last week I crashed and managed to completely tear my ACL, partially tear my meniscus, and sprain my MCL in my left knee. I'm almost 40, 192 cm tall (6 feet 3. An In-Depth Analysis: Below is a video by Dr. g. The two parts to that failure are (1) over training and (2) weak tendons. My main takeaway from my years of climbing and dealing with injuries is that resting and hoping for your fingers to heal doesn't work. From my recent reply to the same question on a different thread: Finger injuries need to be rehabbed strategically. The gains will still be there for you to make in 6 weeks. Go out and have fun. You're now coming to Reddit looking for contrary advice? That's dumb my guy. The home of Climbing on reddit. I did 8 weeks wrist brace, 8 weeks wrist widget full time, then 8 weeks normal with no climbing. 1. I find it hard to believe that most of them will be unaffected by this in the long run. This is not nearly enough to offset repeated overhang crimping, however it has allowed me to slowly work back up to full strength through a number of pulley injuries on left/right hands and ring/middle fingers. it's also super easy to reinjure, so be careful when you start climbing again. This is where I I'm a beginner at bouldering and started about a month and a half ago. Follow the treatment regimen and don't try to rush it. I reckon the ratio is AT LEAST 15 bouldering injuries for every roped climbing injury. Apr 25, 2019 · Antagonist training—working the muscles that oppose your typical climbing muscles—will reduce the risk of injury and increase climbing performance. Bouldering involves some very dynamic moves which can cause strain or injury if your technique is not well developed, but you can also boulder in a very slow and controlled manner. Edit: yeah a bunch of core work and lower body would help you, do some cardio, go Reddit's rock climbing training community. And yes we are scared of falling. But of course it depends on the severity of the injury. Remember our bodies (and minds) are resilient, and set backs are part of the process. Saw a HORRIFIC bouldering injury this week. The former is far more dangerous. Pros training every day have a LOT of training behind them just to adjust to the May 1, 2017 · Taping may help to reinforce the area while doing non-painful climbing while you do rehabilitation. Appreciate injury-prevention tips from older [40+] climbers here. For (1), even Megos himself can't dry-fire off tiny crimps all day long without eventually hurting a tendon. I occasionally climb up to just to practice falling to get comfortable with falling and learn my timing on adjusting my body mid-fall as needed. She also currently serves as Adjunct Faculty at the College of Southern Nevada teaching Anatomy & Physiology. They are just defined to be in list of extreme sports) to me. To provide a narrative account of living with an injury that has sidelined my climbing for a season. He authored the Amazon best-selling book Climb Injury-Free, and is a frequent contributor to Climbing Magazine. Sign up for Strength Training For Injury Prevention with Dr. not that gruesome just watch with sound on lol. Tried climbing the next week but cut it short due to the pain. The key with continuing climbing is to avoid particular types of holds or hand positions that may easily reinjure the particular areas. Forearm pain and weak grip after rock climbing Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. omrs rtfugl ennzi amezrvf swfuvji knvix xrbh bmqec ppzm cokws