Ape index climbing height. 1in), gives him an advantageous reach.
Ape index climbing height. Thought I'd share here in case anyone else is interested I like was :) Ages of all IFSC finalists in 2022 Heights of IFSC boulder and lead finalists in 2022 Summary is: Age range of all climbing finalists (boulder, lead, speed) in the 2022 World Cup is 16-35 years old, with Feb 7, 2024 · Climbing at a high level lends itself to a certain body type. Introduction The Ape Index Calculator is a specialized tool designed to help climbers and athletes measure their arm span in relation to their height. Perfect for athletes, climbers, and fitness enthusiasts looking to optimize their training. but anyone at any height can have a +2 ins ape index, so it is a fallacy that being able to reach further than you can stand is beneficial. The ape index is measured because in sports like rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball it’s Dec 14, 2021 · The ape index can be measured in two ways, either it is the difference or the ratio of your arm span and your height. 07 Ape Index 2 = 5 inches Those sit down starts can be pretty grim, though I find my long legs more of a problem than long arms. One aspect that climbers commonly discuss is the “ape index,” a unique measurement that combines arm length and height, giving insights into a climber’s potential. His on-sight record stands at an impressive 8c+ Mar 14, 2023 · Tl;dr: This analysis shows that weight, gender, height, and ape index do not play a significant role in a person’s maximum sport climbing grade or bouldering grade. How to Measure and May 9, 2025 · The ape index measures arm span (wingspan) to height, but its climbing impact is complex and often overstated; it’s more myth than a primary success determinant for any climber. Jul 10, 2025 · Ape index is a term taken from rock climbing and refers to your height to wingspan ratio. Estimate your own ape index You can either use a ready-to-go ape index calculator or easily count it yourself. First, measure your wingspan, from outstretched fingertip to fingertip. However, even people with a negative gorilla index can do well in rock climbing. 03, so it only explains 3% of the variation in climbing. An Ape Index greater than 1 means your wingspan is greater than your height, which can be an advantage in sports like rock climbing. Both are legendary climbers with multiple world cup championships under their belt. . 5 percent stronger. Scientific evidence is inconclusive, showing weak correlations, while anecdotal beliefs inflate its importance for ape index rock climbing. Interestingly, it’s a concept dating back to Roman times: Vitruvius, an architect, engineer, and writer, argued in 15 BC that a “well-made man” has an arm span equal to his height. It was originally graded a 9b but has since been downgraded to 9a+\\b. Jun 17, 2025 · Understanding the Ape Index The relationship between arm span and height can be quantified using the Ape Index. Climbers are always arguing whether taller climbers have an advantage when climbing. Positive Ape Index: Arm span is greater than height Negative Ape Index: Arm span is less than height Neutral Ape Index: Arm span equals height A higher Ape Index is often considered an advantage in sports that require reach, such as rock climbing, basketball, martial arts, and swimming. Apr 25, 2024 · The ape index is the length of your arm span compared to your height. 05) or as a difference (e. May 22, 2023 · Do things like weight, height, and ape index affect how hard you can climb? Is max finger strength more important than days spent climbing outside? Listen to find out! You can learn more about Karly and Casey at projectdirectcoaching. g. Keywords: ape index climbing explanation, Oriane Bertone bouldering tips, how to calculate ape index, wingspan height climbing advantages, benefits of high ape index, climbing metrics that matter, bouldering techniques for short climbers, improve climbing with ape index, understanding climbing measurements, climbing performance factors Nov 29, 2024 · Ape Index: Understanding the Measure of Reach The term ape index might sound unusual, but it plays a significant role in sports, fitness, and human physiology. Calculate your Ape Index and discover your weaknesses & strengths as a climber Determine the relationship between arm span and body height! Mar 20, 2017 · Ape Index (in. Enter your height and wingspan in cm to determine your ape index. On average, professional male climbers have a larger ape index than professional female climbers. Recently published in the Journal of Strength and Conditioning, Ozimek, M et. 4in (+1 cm) NATIONALITY Czech Adam Ondra Height Adam Ondra stands tall with a height that perfectly complements his climbing style. The concept harks back to Leonardo da Vinci's "Vitruvian Man," which suggested the ideal human proportion where the arm span equals height, a perfect ratio of 1:1. 15b) sent on Aug 29th, 2010. Having been born into a climbing family, Shawn started climbing at just 3 years old. In climbing, any height can be advantageous, as different physiques offer unique strengths. This is sometimes expressed as a ratio, with Da Vinci’s “Vitruvian Man” alluding to the idea that the perfect ratio is one, which is to say that arm span and height should be equal. Of course, the Ape Index is a consideration here. The ape index measures the ratio between arm span and height. He is also the older brother of Olympian Brooke Raboutou. Find events calendar, all past and future results, ranking, IFSC news, photos, videos. Where is Alex Honnold From? Alex Honnold hails from Sacramento, California. If your wingspan is shorter than your height you will have a negative index – 3 inches shorter would be a -3 ape index. By determining the ape index, users gain a better understanding of their Jul 13, 2021 · A negative gorilla index can be a disadvantage. Most people's wingspan equals their height, making them neutral ape indexes. This measurement, called the ape index, is widely used in sports science, especially in activities like rock climbing, swimming, and martial arts, where having a longer reach can offer a performance advantage. That said one could be pickier and ask for ape index, time spent climbing, expertise in bouldering, sport, speed and more. The ape index describes the ratio of wingspan to height. “A taller climber at the taller end of a normal spectrum requires significantly less Calculate your ape index with our easy-to-use Ape Index Calculator. 2in (+3 cm) NATIONALITY Norwegian How Good Is Magnus Midtbø? Magnus Midtbø's hardest redpoint was Ali Hulk (sit start extension) 9a+\\b (5. Reply reply Guyonskis • Jun 3, 2024 · The ape index, a correlation between height and arm span, is crucial for climbing performance. 4K subscribers Subscribed Ape index Ape index refers to the ratio of arm span to height, often reported by elite climbers. Discover your reach-to-height ratio and improve your climbing performance. However, an alternative approach is arm span minus height with the result being positive, 0 or negative. Most of the rest of the time, I love the lank. Height 5′ 5″ Age 26 Ape Index Unknown Nationality Slovenian Janja Garnbret has dominated the world of sport climbing like no other. … Apr 20, 2009 · height 5'10" armspan 6'4" (+6) age 36 years 20+ (depending on what you consider climbing) Ape index, huh? My spine is all messed up and crooked, which is what artifically decreases my height and thus pumps up the index. In other words, the ape index ratio is close to 1. Penguin, Orang-Utan or Average Joe - which one are you? Calculate your ape index and discover where your strengths and weaknesses in climbing lie. A ratio of 1. ” As the first person to free the Nose on El Capitan, she certainly has a leg to stand on. Vitruvius noted that a "well made man" has an arm span equal to his height, as exemplified in Leonardo da Vinci's c. 8inches/ 180cm and your arm span is 70. If somebody who was the same height as me, but with a +4" ape factor had to make a really reachy move on a route, I'd likely be looking for a different way to do that move. Interesting- a few weeks ago I spanned out with "Too Tall Tim" (Davis) who is 6'6" or so and discovered he has only a couple inches of armspan on me. I hope you find what you search for but it really won't tell you anything about climbing. Calculate your Ape Index easily with height and arm span measurements. Jun 18, 2021 · Ape Index is often discussed in other sports such as rock climbing and boxing, where longer arms are usually considered an advantage. While he grew up in a family of Is a Positive ape index good for climbing? To find your ape index, subtract your height from the length of your arm span. 1. Indeed, Matt Samet, editor of Climbing Magazine, writes in his book The Climbing Dictionary: “A positive ape index, in which your wingspan exceeds your height, is a bonus. 73 seconds, which he secured in March 2021 at the Climbing Japan Cup speed competition. Everyone talks about ape index, but is leg length relative to height important when climbing? I never noticed leg length at all until talking to some people and we realized that we have drastically different leg lengths - like a 6 inch range when we're within an inch of one another in height. During the summer of 2011, I took the logical next step in my pursuit of climbing by giving up any fixed address, buying a pick-up and hitting the road indefinitely. Difficulty is VERY height/ reach dependent—would be much harder if you can’t span the holds—but it’s a neat challenge if you happ > Knowing what it is isn't going to help your climbing but is generally considered that if it is postive i. May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. So in theory, that sounds kind of true, but does it really offer you an advantage in climbing? Regularly, the average ape index in humans is zero, like in Leonardo’s sketch, meaning it Jul 16, 2025 · The ape index climbing is a way climbers measure their wingspan relatively to their body. May 30, 2023 · At 5’2” with a negative ape index, Lynn Hill states in her book, Climbing Free, that “height has nothing to do with it; it is your strength that counts. First time climbing at Ape Index Rock Climbing Gym? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered! Check this step out. She always does feet above head heel hooks and crushes outdoor sports climbing like biscuits. With this tool, you can check if your wingspan to height ratio will help you in your sports career. The ape index calculator helps you calculate your ape index (Also known as the ape factor or gorilla index). On average, people have an ape index of zero—something that was noticed millennia ago by Vitruvius, as depicted Calculates the ratio of arm span to height, sometimes used in climbing assessments. Learn to measure yours and if it's ideal! Keywords: rock climbing height advantage, wingspan impact on climbing, gym training tips for climbers, relationship between height and wingspan, performance in rock climbing based on height, climbing technique adjustments, ape index explanation in climbing, maximizing climbing efficiency with wingspan, challenges in climbing due to wingspan, improving gym routines for better climbing Jul 16, 2018 · Gear is only one part of the climbing experience. Calculates the ratio of arm span to height, sometimes used in climbing assessments. 14 points of bouldering ability on the V-scale. 7 and +8. Aug 23, 2022 · The Ape Index (aka Gorilla Index) is a well-known term in the climbing community, and one that is often quoted, albeit primarily by compulsive, male, beta-sprayers trying to impress in compensation for not knowing how to climb. Interestingly, a positive ape index means the wingspan exceeds the height, which can be advantageous in certain physical activities. 4 cm and between +1. Sasha DiGiulian Date Sent: March 2011 Hometown: Alexandria, VA Years Climbing: 18 Age (at send/today): 19/24 Height: 5’2″ Weight (lbs. This blog post explores what the ape index is, its significance for climbers, and how you can calculate However, low body mass, body fat percentage and average body height, and a higher score of ape index, may be considered beneficial for sporting success in climbing. 03 V-points), and height entirely uncorrelated. al studied the body type of elite Polish boulderers to evaluate if variables such as body shape or ape index had any correlation to the level of climbing met by a group of Polish elite climbers. However, if you were part of This systematic review also shows that anthropometric variables such as ape index and height do not seem to be crucial in climbing activity. 1492 drawing What is a good ape index for climbing? As a general rule, a good ape index for climbing is between +2. I'm 6'0" with a neutral ape factor. Reach was far less important (each inch adds only 0. , 1. Jul 9, 2021 · How to measure your ape index and how important is it? Is it the most important factor of your climbing performance? This and more answered! Apr 27, 2025 · Using the same climbers from above, Kai Lightner’s index is +7″ (82 minus 75) while Adam Ondra is only +0. The term though appeared much later and originated from climbing. Neutral Ape Index: A neutral ape index refers to a body proportion where the length of an individual's arms, measured from fingertip to fingertip, is approximately equal to their height. Megos uses his height and build to excel in both technical precision and dynamic power, highlighting th Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. At just 11 years old, he was already climbing 8a+. However, everyone seems to agree that having a higher “ape index” is helpful. HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 35 APE INDEX +1. Basic results? Each inch of ape index should give you an extra 0. This balanced proportion is often considered neutral because there is no significant discrepancy between the length of the arms and the overall height of the The Ape Index Calculator is a handy online tool designed to help you measure the difference between your arm span and your height. Vitruvius noted that a "well made man" has an arm span equal to his or her height, as exemplified in Leonardo da Vinci's drawing, the "Vitruvian Man". e. Welcome to the ape index calculator! Here you will learn what the ape index is (sometimes it's called the ape ratio), how to measure your ape index, and where you can use that knowledge. , +7 in/18 cm). Nov 28, 2023 · What is the Ape Index? The Ape Index compares an individual's arm span to their height. 15 votes, 39 comments. Nonetheless, while there is truth to Lynn’s statement, on a strictly physical level height does allow taller climbers to cover the same amount May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. Ape Index calculator and how to measure your ape index by yourself. [3] He devised the "Tomoa skip", a speed Ape index, ape factor, [1] or gorilla index is slang or jargon used to describe a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. Additionally, you can even compare yourself with some of the greatest athletes. Apr 25, 2024 · For climbers, a more useful way to express the ape index is to subtract height from arm span, giving a value that is either positive, neutral or negative. What is an Ape Index Calculator? Definition: This calculator computes the Ape Index, a measure of the ratio or difference between a person's wingspan and height, often used in sports like climbing and swimming to assess physical advantages. 0 signifies that the arm span is longer. 1 day ago · Really cool little problem. +2 inches this is beneficial for climbing. The correlation (r-squared) was quite low--0. Whilst the norm is an index of 1, the same as your height. Climbing is a sport where every advantage counts, and understanding your body mechanics can transform your performance. If your wingspan is longer than your height you will have a positive index – 2 inches taller is a +2 ape index. Known for redefining the This height, combined with his positive ape index ( +3. Ape index, ape factor, [1] or gorilla index is slang or jargon used to describe a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. 6 mins 73. I do see that there is a Jul 9, 2024 · Stats Ape Index: 1 / 0″ Height: 5’7″ DOB: 8/12/1993 Started Climbing: 1999 Hardest Sport (worked): 9b+ Hardest Sport (flashed): 9a If you want to keep up with Alex, you can follow him on Instagram, Facebook, his website, and YouTube, as well as podcasts like The Struggle and Jam Crack. An Ape Index less than 1 means your wingspan is less than your height. I'm 162cm tall, but my wingspan is only 152cm, so my ape index… Jul 25, 2024 · Height 5′ 10″ Age 46 Ape Index +0 in, +0cm Nationality American Tommy Caldwell is one of the most accomplished and inspiring rock climbers in history. [2] Narasaki formerly held the Japanese record for competition speed climbing with a time of 5. Professional male climbers generally have a larger ape index than professional female climbers. outliers will have a harder time). I'm wondering how much a negative ape index is going to physically I have a friend who is only 5”2 and with -4 inches ape index. I have gotten fairly 'good' apparently for the amount of time I've been climbing, and I'm especially passionate about outdoor sport climbing. The most convenient way to compute the ape index is to reduce a person’s height from their arm span. An ape index above 1 can be beneficial to a number of sports; in basketball, combat sports, goalkeeping, climbing and swimming there is benefit to be gained from increased wingspan relative to height. This simple calculation provides insights into physical proportions that can significantly influence performance in various sports, particularly climbing and gymnastics. What is ape index ? Does is really matter ? Variables Oct 13, 2024 · Ape index, or ape factor, or gorilla index is a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. I was curious what the age and height distribution of the IFSC finalists were so I found out and made a couple charts. which is obvious. 6 and +9. Jun 8, 2019 · Two beautiful shots from Croatia edited for Comparison as it is tradition on this channel, this time taking a look at different body types in terms of reach, height and ape index in rock climbing In rock climbing it is believed that an ape index greater than one, where the arm span is greater than the height, provides for a competitive advantage, and some climbers have expressed the belief that exercise can result in an improved ratio, although this view is somewhat controversial. Oct 8, 2021 · What Is the Ape Index? The ape index is a measurement of how your wingspan (aka arm span) compares to your height. " I have never heard of someone reporting The Ape Index and Your Climbing Potential Bouldering Highlights 25. Body mass values differ significantly between the analyzed groups. "Height bad, BMI good. From head to toe I’m pretty sure he’s around 5’7 give or take a few inches. Try our free online calculator now! Feb 23, 2020 · This compounds the benefit, as longer legs provide a larger base, from which those lengthier arms can then be leveraged. But does it matter? Click to find out. The Slovenian athlete is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. The analysis shows the most important factor in getting better at outdoor rock climbing is going climbing outside (crazy!), followed by several varieties of finger strength and upper-body strength. Long arms for your height are an advantage in rock climbing, swimming I recently measured my ape index for the first time, it's -5cms, pretty negative. Some people believe that the greater this ape index, the better climber you will be if your arm span is longer than your height. Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. This is the ratio of your height/reach (index finger to index finger). I love climbing, but I definitely don't have the body for it. A positive ape index is considered advantageous for rock climbers. From: Physiological demands and nutritional considerations for Olympic-style competitive rock climbing [2019] What is a good ape index for climbing? It’s commonly believed that a positive ape index (or an ape index ratio greater than 1) is good for rock climbing. “A taller climber at the taller end of a normal spectrum requires significantly less Feb 6, 2025 · This index, commonly used in sports like climbing and swimming, observes that whether someone has a positive, negative, or neutral ape index. Where Did Ape Index Come From? Ape index is a phrase that started as climbing slang, but the origins of arm span compared to height actually date back to Roman times in 15 BC. 4 cm. A typical ratio is 1, as identified by the Roman writer, architect and engineer Vitruvius prior to 15 BC. Jan 12, 2022 · Arm to height ratio or ape index is commonly measured to gauge aesthetics and athletic abilities. With our calculator, you can quickly and easily find Jun 4, 2024 · The Ape Index is a correlation between an individual’s height and arm span. This is because you have a greater range when it comes to reaching. 6 and +10. Discover if your arm span exceeds your height for potential advantages in climbing or other sports. and i'm short (female) to top it off. 3 cm for pro female climbers. HEIGHT 5′ 8″ AGE 30 APE INDEX +0 in (+0 cm) NATIONALITY German How Tall Is Alex Megos? Alex Megos stands at 5′ 8″ (173cm). 0 indicates that the two measurements are equal, while a ratio greater than 1. Growing up near such iconic climbing destinations as Yosemite National Park has profoundly influenced his climbing career and skill development from a young age. The only thing is his ape index is +5 and he’s absurdly strong. May 12, 2025 · HEIGHT 6′ 1″ AGE 31 APE INDEX +. So basically if your height is 70. It’s believed that most people’s wingspan is equivalent to their height, meaning most people have a neutral ape index or, put another way, an ape index ratio of 1. APE index doesn't correlate well at all with climbing performance and it doesn't predict climbing performance in novice climbers. The ape index, which is a ratio of your wingspan vs your height, is an interesting part of climbing because if you compare the average person to the top 1% of climbers, you will notice the top Now climbing has emerged as a vehicle for travel (another strong passion of mine), a dynamic set of challenges and a lifestyle I very much enjoy. Ape index formula The Ape index is calculated using the following formula: Ape index = Wingspan / Height Height and Wingspan This index is expressed as a numerical value Oct 18, 2022 · The Ape Index measures how your wing span compares to your height. Compute your wingspan by stretching both rams sideways to take the measurement. 2). This index is calculated by dividing a person’s arm span by their height. Apr 18, 2022 · What is Ape Index? Ape index is a term taken from rock climbing and refers to your height to wingspan ratio. What is the advantage of complicating it, and what is the advantage of increasing values for shorter climbers and decreasing it for taller climbers? You argue ape index is mathematically flawed, but where is the flaw? Being unitless is a novelty, especially since ape index is always reported next to height, which does have units. Your ape index and other measurements are also very important to know before you climb. Ape index is your wingspan (the length from fingertip to fingertip with your arms outstretched) minus your height. ): -2 Time On Route: 7 days Quote: Joe and I spent a week trying it, and we both felt a bit rushed to finish the line before the weather turned sour at the end of the season. Mar 12, 2023 · So since the time of Vitruvius and Leonardo da Vinci, a normal ape index has shown equality of a human height and arm span. The Ape Ratio, also known as the Ape Index or wingspan to height ratio, is a numerical measure that compares an individual's wingspan (the distance from fingertip to fingertip when arms are fully extended) to their height. ): 108 Ape Index The ape index is usually defined as the ratio of arm span to height. 4″ (73. I have dreams of ONE DAY being able to do 8a routes and above. Ape index, or ape factor, or gorilla index is a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. Unlike the dimensionless ratio, this calculation produces a numeric value in the units of measurement used to represent the height and arm span. It's a term well-known in climbing circles and is often brought up when discussing physical advantages in the sport. This will give you a value that’s either positive, neutral, or negative. Notable Climbs Jul 14, 2017 · Below it? Measure or guess the number of inches difference between your fingertips (wingspan) and your height. It can be expressed as a ratio (e. Height - 71 inches Arm Span - 76 inches Ape Index 1 = 1. Jonny2vests 10 Oct 2013 In reply to David Alcock: Ironically enough I don’t think Louis Parkinson (the climber in the gif) is actually that tall. Narasaki won the IFSC World Championships in bouldering in 2016 and 2019, and was also the overall winner of the IFSC Climbing World Cup for bouldering in 2016 and 2019. There are climbers with negative ape like Ondra and some with +10 cm like Jan Hojer. Your ape index is your wingspan (arm span) compared to your height. 8inches/180cm then your ape index difference is 0 and your ape index ratio is 1. 1in), gives him an advantageous reach. Still in her mid-20s, she has rewritten record books with multiple World Championship titles, Worl It is also important to note that the height distribution of the best climbers is narrower than the height distribution of the general population (i. The typical ape index for pro male climbers ranges between +3. In rock climbing I think this data only confirms that climbing morphs are variable in elite athletes but high strength-weight ratio is significant when competing against the best. Reply reply andrew314159 • Jan 9, 2015 · Your ape index — also referred to as your ape factor — is a measurement of your wingspan in ratio to your height. Somebody can correct me if I’m wrong but I’m like 85% Louis isn’t super tall. We all need a little inspiration somewhere every now and then. com Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Google Podcasts Karly’s Original Episode: EP 124: Karly Rager (June 27 Mar 6, 2023 · Shawn Raboutou is the son of Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou and Didier Raboutou. Your ape index is largely Apr 25, 2024 · The Ape Index The ape index is the length of your arm span compared to your height. A positive index is seen as advantageous for climbers. This simple yet revealing metric can impact athletic performance, equipment fitting, and even our understanding of human evolution. 1492 drawing Probably only relevant when sharing route beta with climbers of a similar height. eoqfwmanbtlobweuftbdkzfxogaqskwmfoandqiyggpusxwsb