Belaying someone heavier. Lack of attention is a leading cause of belay accidents.

Belaying someone heavier. I know plenty others that simply say they’re not comfortable belaying someone so much heavier. 2mm rope. Dec 15, 2020 · About to take the belay test at the gym but not sure where to start? Relax. Outdoor toprope - belaying much heavier person Hello all, My fiancee and I are looking to do some outdoor top rope climbing, but she is much lighter than me and would prefer to have a heavy sandbag with us to weigh her down while belaying me like we do in the gym. When clipped to the first bolt or placement, the Ohm increases rope friction so belayers don't fly in the air when the climber falls or lowers. Being belayed as a heavier climber, seems to get you a soft catch by default. If you anchor the belayer to the ground, be very careful because a sudden fall can cause injury to the belayer if the force is great enough. Disadvantages: Its expensive. We’re hitting Skaha this weekend, and said partner would like to try Jul 24, 2025 · These devices are especially useful when you are belaying someone on a project (a route that is very difficult for the climber) and catching lots of falls. the lighter climbing belaying the heavier. Belaying is not just a technique; it's a lifeline. The rope does not act like a playground seesaw. It can be frustrating sometimes and at some points, it feels like I can't trust my belaying partner cause I'm slowly being lowered. Are you giving your partner the belay they deserve? Whether you're in the gym, at the crag, or in the mountains, belaying is one of the most important and universal skills a climber can have When I was younger and was belaying my father, I would do a hand slide technique basically. How do you climb outdoor leads? A heavy person belaying a heavy person has to hold the same force as a light person belaying a heavy person, so like everyone has said; weight is irrelevant and it's all about the device and correct technique and the only condiseration is that a lighter person is more likely to be lifted further off the ground without an anchor. The 2nd generation Ohm from Edelrid is a device that allows you to belay much heavier people when lead climbing. That put me out of action for 5 months! I’ve used an ohm since when climbing indoors or sport climbing outdoors when there’s a significant weight difference. These could save your life and the person who is much heavier than you. Stand directly under the first anchor. Lack of attention is a leading cause of belay accidents. If possible, try to lead climb with people who are of a similar weight if possible (25 lbs. See #1 to remove this problem. Lowering takes a little time to learn smoothly as you can't feel it as much as an ATC but you catch on pretty quick. more As someone who is heavier, I know firsthand how your boyfriend feels. Does your belayer usually pick up on your signals that you're going to clip? Weight differences between climber and belayer can lead to dangerous situations in climbing. Many climbers at my gym use one when it’s male / female pairings. If you tie yourself to the ground, it minimizes the problems mentioned above as you cannot move when the climber falls. If you want to know how to belay someone heavier than you, keep the following tips in mind. Yes, it can be safe if you do it right, even without an anchor, but the belayer really need to know what they're doing (read the article). But neither of those things are unsafe inherently. Jun 26, 2023 · One of the critical aspects that make rock climbing safe and enjoyable is the practice of belaying. Jan 8, 2013 · Climbing with people of different weights is just something that you need to get used to. Belaying with weight differences is totally safe as long as you’re aware of it. If you’re just in the process of pulling up, and belaying someone a little heavier, it seems way less safe then the other way around I (64kg) often climb with heavier people (84-89kg). In this article, we’ll teach you everything you need to know about belaying, from the basics to more advanced techniques. Jan 13, 2021 · A: The first thing I try to let belayers know about belaying someone heavier than you is that it is not necessarily a bad thing if you get pulled off the ground. Frankly, just tell him you do not feel safe belaying, both for his sake and yours and that he should find another belayer. My rope goes through the device loads easier making it harder to lower and hold a falling a I need some advice regarding belaying someone about 100lbs heavier than I am. The advantage of this device is when you are belaying someone light like a child. Let’s learn more! Watch on Yes, it is safe to belay someone heavier than you as long as you have the proper technique, equipment, and knowledge. Reply reply bearbreeder • Jul 7, 2017 · In the event of a fall, the OHM increases rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier partner without being suddenly pulled off the ground and thrown against the wall. —The spur acts as a redirect point when belaying a second from above. Oct 2, 2022 · How do belay people become heavier? Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. It is important for every rock climber to be able to perform a soft catch, but doing this with perfection is what is required when belaying someone heavier than you. Wear sturdy, closed-toed shoes when belaying a heavier climber. Your belayer can also anchor to the ground or hook a weight onto their belay loop or even wear a heavy backpack. This indoor ice climbing facility is great for learning crampon and axe work Learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the PBUS method and how to lower a climber. Learning proper belaying techniques will make you a trustworthy rock climbing partner. Nov 18, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You need to pull the rope gently, you can't yank on it. Aug 15, 2023 · Belaying someone smaller than you requires making the concerted effort to jump at just the right time so that there’s enough slack in the rope to catch them softly. I struggled a bit the first time we did this I don't think it's irresponsible to belay someone much heavier than you, but it does require more attention to safety. Warning: DO NOT get the Freino Z unless you need it for a specific and more specialized descent device that cavers and canyoneers would be The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. If someone tries to strike up a conversation, say, “I can’t talk while I’m belaying, talk to you after he finishes. Aug 29, 2021 · Can you belay someone heavier than you? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. As for using the ohm, you can simply say you don’t like getting pulled up and feel you have better control catching No description has been added to this video. It pays to not have a huge weight difference; if your climber is much heavier than you, then a fall might lift you very high, sometimes into the first piece of protection. Feb 2, 2025 · Okay, let’s go back to the original question: is it possible to belay someone heavier than you safely? Yes, as long as you use the right equipment, the proper stance, and you keep focused on your climber. The heavier person will fall farther and the lighter person might get lifted off the ground a bit. Basically, two people are belaying instead of just one but this can lead to some difficulties. How do you belay someone bigger than you? Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. Although this phenomenon is disconcerting at first, it can be perfectly safe with a few simple precautions—and it provides a nice, soft catch for the climber. Jul 19, 2022 · Over the last 35 years of climbing and guiding, I’ve belayed innumerable partners who outweighed me, and along the way learned a few tricks both to help me catch them and feel confident belaying them. It’s important to assess your own abilities and the weight of the person you want to belay. Jun 28, 2018 · While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to counterbalance the climber when they fall. Wearing a helmet, such as the PETZL Vertex Vent, is important to protect the head. Because of the less friction, it is also a disadvantage when you are belaying someone who is much heavier. It sounds like you're talking about climbing in a gym. The Ohm is hooked into the first bolt of the safety chain with the rope inserted. It will focus on top rope belaying, but what you’ll be reading is largely transferable to lead belaying. Can I belay someone heavier than me? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. Then again, I have been told that I am often too blunt. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable belaying someone significantly heavier than me, and I surely wouldn't allow a stranger to belay me. When you start to belay a lead climber you need to have someone with experience close at hand, backing you up. Jan 31, 2021 · All climbers should strive to improve their belaying , which means learning and practicing the subtleties that make a truly great belayer. In top-rope belaying, if there are small weight differences (around 50lbs or less) between you and your Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners Searchfor Sep 27, 2022 · When belaying someone heavier than you, it is also a good idea to wear a sandbag as extra weight. When I’m belaying someone heavier, I make sure to stand directly at the base of the wall (unless it’s super overhung, in which case I get straight under the first bolt), and I also make sure to be wearing my hiking shoes and have them laced up firmly. The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. It's also important to note that the heavier climber needs to be good at it to avoid giving the lighter one hard catches. You can go to a bouldering gym Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 29 likes, 4 comments - verticalnetwork_coach on June 16, 2025: "Belaying +30kg? Try These 3 Tricks! 💡 Ever struggled to belay someone much heavier than you? Here are 3 real-life options to stay in control – tested with a +30kg weight difference. Make sure the first bolt is above you not in front of you. While it’s not possible to completely remove all the risks of belaying a heavier partner, there are some things you can do to minimize them. Check out this video for some good tips on practicing falls and watch how the belayer reacts. As a heavy climber and someone who sometimes belays heavier climbers than me I say embrace getting lifted up a little, it’s a bit uncomfortable but there’s nothing wrong with coming close to the wall, kicking it and lowering from there, you might end up a bit like you are laying back, that’s ok. I've been caught by lighter belayers with no problem, but they do go for a ride. There is a big difference between belaying someone on a top rope and belaying a lead climber. If I'm climbing with a belayer I don't know well, then I'm certainly more wary with somebody heavier than with somebody lighter. Me and 2 friends are about to move from bouldering to top rope climbing, but we are all different weights, one of us is 11st one is 14st and one is 18st. Don't "brace" - let yourself be pulled up. 👉 I was at the gym with some ppl from here, and I was belaying someone heavier than me (with no anchor no less) and when he was rappelling, there was a little slack and I flew up in the air. Learn how to give a good catch. You will get better at judging how far people fall with a certain amount of slack and it becomes intuitive. Do you need a partner to rock climb? Second, you don’t need a partner. From Basics to Advanced Techniques that help you to become an Independent Climber capable of understanding the Safety of Feb 9, 2020 · Belaying far from the base of the climb is an invitation to be thrown forcefully into the rock wall while catching a fall. If you agree to belay, you are taking someone else’s life into your hands. Learn how to give a Soft Catch with Dynamic Belaying Techniques and Prevent Common Injuries from Roc Aug 4, 2021 · Detailed Course for Sport Climbers. Climbing magazine has more details about belaying a heavier leader. Then slide the other. The Complete Guide to Dynamic Belaying in Rock Climbing. It is the simplest belay device. Otoh I know some guys who are even heavier, but I have complete faith in their belaying because I know they practice a lot and have good technique. Belaying a heavy climber A quick search didn't reveal any results, so apologies if I missed something. Head injuries can be debilitating and can put a climber out of commission. Countermeasures should be taken to avoid possible injuries if th Feb 14, 2009 · Careful which belay device you choose - I had an ATC which was fine most of the time, but on one occasion when I was belaying someone much bigger than me, it was awfully difficult to hold him when he fell! I really had to hold the rope tight in order to avoid dropping him. Nov 14, 2012 · And for belaying: it can definitely be intimidating when you are much lighter than the leader. I've been finding that when i'm belaying a leading climber who is quite a bit heavier than me my belay device doesn't seem to have enough friction. Buy an ATC guide or XP if you are worried about heavy climbers pulling rope through. Slide one hand down, grip the brake rope firmly, and feed that back into the device. No friction. The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. If you think tieing yourself down will be a detriment to your friends mental state, I’ve suggest foregoing roped climbing for awhile and bouldering together instead. So my father who was like 70 pounds heavier, I would basically lower him down with a reverse belay technique. . I dunno if there is any proven statistic or ratio, but I would not want to belay with that much of a difference. Study with Quizlet and memorize flashcards containing terms like Basic Safety System (Top Rope), Top Rope gear (5), Top Rope Human and more. It's definitely worth trying again. Can you belay a heavier than you? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. I generally stay within 50 lbs of my climbing partners. Oct 4, 2018 · I hope you have enjoyed learning more about how to belay with tips on belaying a heavier climber. It's right at home when belaying someone heavier than you or when your forearms are bumpin from the route you just spent 10 minutes sending and your partner wants an immediate go to show you a "different way". Wear gloves when belaying. I don’t think there’s a major difference in the way that I belay people heavier or lighter climbers; it’s just a matter of technique and preparedness if they fall. Nov 22, 2021 · How do Belay people become heavier? Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. ️ Option 1: Counterweight ️ Option 2: Rope twist ️ Option 3: Ohm or similar brake booster 🎯 Learn to belay smarter, not harder. In our gym only folks who have been signed off on by the staff can lead they have a nice bright yellow tag on their harness. Just sit back and enjoy the definitive guide on how to belay. Because of the Ohm I actually prefer belaying someone heavier on lead rather than top rope. Can also try an assisted breaking resistor if you’re a small light person and consistently belaying heavier climbers. Obviously the heavier can belay the lighter people but how do we catch a fall or lower the 18st climber? Edit:bit of clarity needed Sep 13, 2015 · My experience as a heavier climber has been that I need to be on the ball to give a soft catch. But that’s not always the case. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. So what can you do if your lead climber weighs much more than you? Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. Almost a 100lb difference. Is top rope the same as belay? In top-rope climbing most of the rope is initially running up the wall or cliff to a top anchor Difference in weight shouldn't matter - good belaying is good belaying. Belaying is one of the most important skills a climber can learn, and it’s essential for keeping yourself and your partner safe while climbing. This way, climbers don’t fall very far when they fall. I use a DMM bug which is fine on the thick indoor top ropes and when belaying someone of similar weight (or a couple of stone heavier)on my 10. You can try out the tips listed here and see which one works best for you. Dec 28, 2022 · Don’t talk to anyone when you are belaying. Jun 30, 2023 · You have to know how to top rope and lead belay if you want to keep yourself and your partner safe while rock climbing. ” Similarly, avoid asking questions of someone who is belaying or climbing. Edit: Just a thought, if belaying someone heavier than you still scares you look into purchasing an Ohm! I use them when someone is 60lbs or heavier than me and it helps a lot. Of course your mileage may vary May 13, 2009 · To be honest, I think belaying can be much more safely taught if you involve a third person; that way the novice belayer is always being watched and coached, and a second pair of hands can be kept on the dead rope just in case they fluff it completely. Climber much heavier than belayer. A good belayer will pay constant attention to the climber, watching for upward movement so they can pay the rope out at the right time. It was designed for soft belaying and to avoid rope drag when quickly pulling up rope in tricky crux situations - our testers say ZÆD feels like belaying / being belayed by a climber of the same Lots of good responses re. Before belaying a heavier climber outdoors, it is best to first practice in a climbing gym. Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. Start by discussing the weight of both people and make sure that you’re comfortable with it. It's something that's constantly on my mind whilst belaying. Dec 6, 2016 · In my personal experience belaying people who are much heavier than myself I've found what generally happens is I get pulled up a couple feet up in the air, then I lower myself down to the ground, and once my feet are back on terra firma I'm able to lower the other climber. Nov 22, 2021 · Is it safe to belay someone heavier than you? The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. At what sort of weight difference is a soft catch no longer a concern since you will give one automatically. When belaying people much heavier I actually brace as opposed to try to give a soft catch (sometimes I drop below 64kg making the weight difference really big). You want some slack to the ground from the belayer. A helmet is another important piece of equipment for belaying heavy climbers. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. As a beginner concerned with safety and also knowing I will probably be belaying people heavier than me (something that is less of an issue with indoor top roping), what do people recommend? Apr 18, 2025 · Edelrid's Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor is unlike anything the climbing community has seen before, and it drastically increases safety for lighter belayers and heavier climbers. It is easier to lower with less friction in the belay device. With aid I’ve belayed someone about 100lbs heavier than me. Sure, you can try to choose climbing partners that match your weight. Knowing how to belay well can help keep your partner safe and inspire them to climb at their best. My partner is about 80-90 lb heavier than I am and Jun 15, 2012 · People whose partners outweigh them by 25 pounds or more routinely get yanked off the ground when catching sport-climbing leader falls. Read more about it in detail in this post. Using protective gear when belaying is good practice, whether or not you’re belaying someone who is heavier than you. You will not get pulled up to the very top of the climb if your climber falls. How do belay people become heavier? Here are some handy belaying tips to help you and your heavier friend climb safely together despite the discrepancy. The OHM still enables smooth paying out and taking in rope when climbing and belaying and has no negative affect on handling. Feb 18, 2020 · This is Ania getting to grips with belaying someone heavier than she is while climbing at the ice factor Kinlochleven. They are also great if your climber calls “Take!”, because with proper belay technique no extra slack can pass through the device. difference or less ideally) If you do not have the option of finding someone within your weight range, try to find sandbags or something heavy to anchor yourself with indoors or a fixed anchor outdoors. May 23, 2025 · In reply to cacheson: I badly damaged my foot when belaying a heavier climber (20kg diff) indoors when I slammed into the wall and caught the top of my foot on a projecting hold. I would love to hear your thoughts or if you have additional questions, please leave me your comments below. My rope goes through the device loads easier making it harder to lower and hold a falling a This article will answer the question, what is belaying? It will stress how important belaying is in rock climbing – how it is the most important skill in roped climbing – followed by a step-by-step guide on how to belay safely. 40-50 lbs heavier than me I can manage, but I do get some air. Oct 15, 2021 · A rock climber relies on a reliable belayer to keep them safe on a crag. On the other hand, belaying someone larger means sinking down into the ground as they fall so there’s not too much slack in the system. What are some strategies for belaying someone significantly heavier than you on top rope? There's probably a 70 pound difference. With the physics of lead climbing it’s the weight difference that is most important, not percentages. This device doesn't interfere with rope handling whether it's the lead Nov 22, 2021 · How heavy do you have to be to belay someone? This is my primary recommendation for those of you belaying climbers who are A LOT heavier than you – think 50lbs or more. Top rope climbing is a lot safer than lead climbing when it comes to belaying, as you usually never take an uncontrolled fall. When belaying, stand directly under the first bolt. Beyond that I want an edelrid ohm or a sandbag. But it's possible to do. Even with the Ohm I’d be hesitant to lead belay someone that much heavier than you. —The spur helps to add friction when belaying someone heavier or when rappelling a single line. My question for you all is: Would you recommend this sandbag method for outdoor Aug 17, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per The only recommendations i would have would be to anchor yourself to the ground if you are belaying someone much heavier than you and/or use a stick-clip if possible for the first one or two bolts. You have to belay dynamically, read your climber, anticipate and give them as soft a fall as possible. jwpts rgvz cqd htmw ekbm wta paopajp pmtuyy kbkxt ujhzyd